Tibetan Places > Ba Lhagang > Visitor Facts for Ba Lhagang

Visitor Facts for Ba Lhagang

Area

<br /> <span class="dropcap-2b">Ba Lhagang</span> is located in the Minyak cultural subregion of Kham, located between Rangakha (Tibetan: ར་རྔ་ཁ / Chinese: Xinduqiao) to the south and Barme (TIbetan: བར་སྨད / Chinese: Bamei) to the north. Standing at an altitude of approximately 3700 meters (just over 2 miles), the town occupies a corridor of land between two ridges and a large bend in the Serche River. Lhagang’s main street is lined with retail and food supply shops, restaurants, hotels, a hospital and two schools, among other places. At the heart of the town is Lhagang Monastery, in front of which is a large public square. On the other side of the wide hill lies the Golden Stupa, an impressive temple complex built in relatively recent times on a sacred area of grassland known as the Guru Tang by Dorje Tashi Rinpoche, a well-known lama from Lhagang. Beyond the Golden Stupa to the north lies the Serche grassland. To the northeast one can see the massive form of Zhara Latse, a mountain considered sacred in the region, and to the right of Zhara one can see Zhamo, Zhara’s female counterpart (Zhara is considered male). In the immediate vicinity of Lhagang are five additional sacred mountains, not including Zhara Latse and Zhamo. The Manjushri (Sanskrit name or Jampeyang in Tibetan), Avalokiteshvara (Tibetan: Chenrezig), Padmasambhava (Tibetan: Guru Rinpoche) and Vajrapani (Tibetan. Chakna Dorje) Mountains lie on the opposite side of the Serche River from Lhagang and overshadow the town. The fifth sacred mountain, the Drolma Mountain, lies behind the town on the same side of the river. Climbing these mountains is considered a way to accumulate good karma, and tourists are welcome to climb them provided they maintain decorum and refrain from littering.

Taking no more than 10-15 minutes to walk the length of the .7 mile main road, Lhagang is not a very large town by any means. From the surrounding hillsides you can easily view the entire town and the grasslands that surround it to the north. Although not large, there is no shortage of interesting sites to see and experiences to be had in the surrounding area, ranging from horse-riding, to hikes to glacial-fed turquoise lakes, to beautiful remote monasteries, a variety of interesting wildlife, and much more. With its stunning landscape and numerous surrounding places of interest, Lhagang is an excellent place to spend a few days exploring.

Changing Money

Lhagang has no reliable bank, nor at present are there international ATMs on points north (Gandze, Dege). The best option is to change money at a Bank of China branch in Chengdu or at a bank in Dartsedo before you come to Lhagang. The Agricultural Bank of China in Dartsedo has several ATMs, all of which accept Visa credit or debit cards.

Email & Internet Access

Also see the Post & Communication

Some of the best options for internet access are:

• Kan ba Peace Hotel (ph: 13158406585): Also has tea house and restaurant.
• Khampa Cultural Centre (ph: 13618130199)
• Sally's Restaurant

Entertainment

The main attractions for entertainment in Lhagang take place during the horse festival and monastic dances during the summer. (See the section on Seasonal Events).

Food & Drink

In Lhagang you will be able to find and try nearly all the staples to the Tibetan diet, as well as the standard kinds of Sichuan-style Chinese foods available in most cities and towns in the area. Most places in Tibet have a variety of vegetables and fruits. Yak meat and pork dishes are readily available and some Lhagang restaurants even have fish and chicken. Vegetarians usually will be able to find a Chinese restaurant that serves tofu and vegetables. If you are looking to cook for yourself, there are at least two produce shops with a good variety of fruits and vegetables, including carrots, tomatoes, celery, cabbage, apples, and bananas.

For Tibetan cuisine, you may be interested to try thick Tibetan noodle soup or tukpa. This is can be served with or without meat and is one of the easiest dishes to find in town. Tukpa in Lhagang is similar to thukpa in other parts of Tibet; it addition to noodles and yak meat, it is served with a variety of vegetables.

Tibetan dumplings are usually easy to find as well. Yak-meat dumplings are most common, however restaurants sometimes have potato and “butter” dumplings as well. Butter dumplings (Tibetan: mar polo or minyak polo) are unique to this area of Tibet. Despite the name, their main ingredient is barley flour, not butter. Essentially these are an adaption of another Tibetan staple—barley dough or bak - served in dumpling form. They make for a hardy meal, especially when accompanied by Tibetan milk tea.

In addition to soup and dumplings, Lhagang is has excellent soft Tibetan-style cheese which you usually encounter if you stay with a family or at a Tibetan-run guesthouse. Locally made yogurt is great in the summer and usually easy to find.

Besides Tibetan and Chinese food, there is a Muslim noodle shop close to Lhagang monastery that is popular amongst Western travelers. Finally, adjacent to Lhagang monastery on its left is Sally's Restaurant which serves Western and Chinese food, including pizza, pancakes, and yak burgers.

If you want food that you can take with you as you hike, Sally's Restaurant in particular has been known to make packed-lunches on request. Dumplings and flat bread are also available as carry-out from other restaurants in town.

Getting Around (Transportation)

The entirety of Lhagang can easily be explored on foot. From the southern entrance of town to Lhagang Monastery at the other end of town, the distance is less than one mile (approximately 1.13 km). The distance from town to the Nyingma Monastic College tucked away on the back side of the Manjushri mountain is a little more than half a mile walk. It is about the same distance from town to the Golden Stupa. Day trips to nearby sites such as Pelri, Drangar, and Baynay monastery take only a couple of hours by car. Local drivers charge about 200 to 400 RMB to most of these locations. A horse can be rented for trips to Gyelko nunnery and the nearby nomadic camp for a price of 100 to 300 RMB. If you have a bike, you may be interested to head down the road on the far side of the river (the side of the river opposite the town) to Ralo village and monastery. The nearby villages of Shamalung and Gyelko nunnery make for nice day trips by bike or on foot.

Getting Information

Getting information about where to stay, eat, and what to do in Lhagang has become increasingly easy in recent years. In particular, the two primary sources of information in Lhagang are the Khampa Cultural Centre and Sally's Restaurant.

The Khampa Cultural Centre is the first place a traveler unfamiliar with the area will want to go. The center started in 2006 and is run by Yonten Gyamtso, a local Tibetan who speaks fluent English. Located near Lhagang monsatery, the Khampa Cultural Centre features a restaurant serving Tibetan, Chinese and Western food, and a museum that displays interesting cultural artifacts from the area. Yonten and staff know the area in and around Lhagang well and can suggest a wide array of activities such as treks, horse rides, and nomadic home-stays. In addition to a restaurant and museum, you'll also find a collection of English books to read, maps of the area, Tibetan made gifts and postcards, and internet access at the center.

Sally's Restaurant and the associated Snowland Guesthouse are also excellent resources for information about the area. Located just to the left of Lhagang Monastery, Sally's Restaurant and the Snowland Guesthouse have much experience assisting travelers in Lhagang and can answer most questions you may have about what to do and where to go in the area. Sally has connections to a number of traveler's hostels in Chengdu, including Sam's Guesthouse and Holly's Hostel. If your trip begins in Chengdu, these establishments are valuable resources as you make you way from mainland China to the Tibetan plateau, especially if you are looking to plan group trips or simply need advice on traveling in Tibet in general.

Additional service providers for travelers in Lhagang arise every year. It will be easy to spot their English language signs as you walk through town.

Finally, there are a few websites worth checking, most notably definitelynomadic.com-an excellent resource if you are looking to arrange a trek in Kham or buy hand-made Tibetan crafts.

Getting There

To Lhagang…

from Dartsedo:

Buses leave from Dartsedo for points north everyday. A bus for Lhagang departs at about 6:30 and costs 30-50 RMB. Near the bus station is a network of drivers who you can hire to take you Lhagang or Rangakha for 45 or 30 RMB respectively. Many drivers may approach you saying “Tagong”, the Chinese name for Lhagang. Recently, a new shuttle with direct service to Lhagang began in late summer of 2007. This is perhaps the best option as it is cheaper and more comfortable than full-sized buses and a hired car. Look for a large white shuttle vehicle about two blocks from the bus station. It usually leaves around 1 pm each day.

The trip from Dartsedo to Lhagang takes 2 ½ to 4 hours depending on the vehicle, road conditions, and how many stops your driver makes. Be aware that hired cars will often tell you they will take you to Lhagang but in fact will only go as far as Rangakha (the town immediately preceding Lhagang). Usually this is not a problem as the driver should be able to quickly arrange a new car for you for the remainder of the journey once you arrive in Rangakha. If you have a lot of luggage however, you will have to transfer your belongings to a new car which can be a pain. Further, on a slow day you may have to wait in Rangakha for your driver to find additional passengers to Lhagang. These types of delays have been known to take up to an hour. If you can, be clear with your driver in Dartsedo to make sure he and all of your fellow passengers are going directly to Lhagang and that you don't want to stop in Rangakha. Alternatively, if you are in a hurry you can always offer to pay for the empty seats in car so you can travel more efficiently to your destination without the waits and second-hand smoke.

As of late 2007, the price should be around 25-45 RMB for most types of transportation to Lhagang (shuttle, bus, or small car), however don't be surprised if the price is slightly higher; the fare to Lhagang increased 30% in 2007 alone due to increased gas prices throughout all of China and is subject to change again.

from points north:

If you are coming from Kandzé, Danba, Drango, Dege, Dzogchen, or Bamei you can usually catch a bus heading that is heading to Dartsedo in the morning. When you get on, be sure to say you are going to Lhagang (Chinese: Tagong) and they will charge you the appropriate fare. Kandzé to Lhagang is about 80 RMB.

Getting Away

From Lhagang…

to Dartsedo:

A shuttle leaves for Dartsedo most days and costs about 25 RMB. A public bus leaves from Lhagang monastery early each morning and has a similar fare. Buses en route from Ganze or Drango to Dartsedo pass through Lhagang in mid-morning and will stop if you flag them down. Otherwise, it is easy to pay for a seat in a small car going to Rangakha for 15 RMB at any time of the day. From Rangakha, it is 30 RMB to Dartsedo. You can also often pay for a seat from Lhagang directly to Dartsedo in a small car if your fellow passengers are going there as well. If you are unsure how to track down transportation, the caretaker at your guest-house can usually help if you ask.

to points North (Bamei, Danba, Drango, Gandze, Dege, Dzogchen, Serta):

The easiest way to get to places like Gandze and Dege is by bus. Since Lhagang does not have a bus station of its own, you will have to stop one of the buses coming from Dartsedo as it passes through Lhagang. The caretaker at your guest-house will often help you with this. In one day, the farthest you can go without taking a sleeper is Gandze. This costs about 80 RMB. If available, you can also pay for a seat in a small car going to Bamei, Danba or Daofu.

to local places of interest:

• Zhara Yumtso (turqoise lake at Mount Zhara) – 250 or higher by car. You have to arrange this trip with a local driver.
• Bané and Drankhar monasteries – 100-300 RMB by car. These monasteries are about 1 hour from Lhagang on a small dirt road. Inclement weather makes travel on these roads difficult so be sure to go on dry, sunny day if possible.
• Gyelko nunnery or Zhamalung– 5 to 15 RMB by car. The best option is to get a seat in the nunnery van that travels back and forth to Lhagang several times a day. Look for the nun driving a gray van (incidentally maybe one of the few woman drivers you will see).

The new airport

Beginning in 2008 or 2009 a new airport near Dartsedo will be open for traffic. Sources say commercial flights from Chengdu will be offered soon however we do not have much information about this. From the airport, the drive to Lhagang should be only be about 2-3 hours and likely less after construction on the road from the airport to Lhagang is finished (reconstruction of the road from Rangakha to Lhagang was finished in 2007; construction on the road from the airport to Dartsedo will start in 2008).

History:

TBA

Information:

Languages

Locals makes a distinction between the “town” dialect of the Lhagang proper versus the nomadic dialect that most of the nomads in the surrounding area speak. The “town” dialect consists of a mixture of nomad dialects with more universal expressions and usages common to the “farming” dialect that is used around the area of Rangakha to the south. The nomadic dialect itself is popularly said to be the same as the Amdo dialect, however in practice traditional nomads usually can not understand many forms of the Amdo dialect very well at all. Some people understand dialects from central Tibet and realize that most foreigners who know some Tibetan speak some form of Lhasa dialect. Depending on who you spend time with (nomads or farmers, people with a literary education etc), you may be able to communicate sufficiently with the so-called “standard” Tibetan; many nomads in particular though find much of standard Tibetan incomprehensible - whether spoken by a Tibetan or foreigner.

Most Tibetans in Lhagang can speak Chinese and are familiar with both Mandarin and the Sichuanese dialect.

Libraries /Information Centers:

Sonam Tso Cafe in Dartsedo

Sonam Tso Cafe is located near the Black Tent Hotel and Nakchu Monastery in Dartsedo. It is a great place to interact with other travelers and get information before starting upon an exploration of Lhagang and the surrounding areas.

See also Getting Information

Maps

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Medical Services:

Typical sicknesses for travelers in Lhagang include altitude and stomach problems. For the most part, Lhagang has remedies to most small types of sickness, such as diarrhea, altitude-related headaches, and nausea. For more serious problems, there is a government hospital located about one block from Lhagang monastery. The government hospital is able to perform minor types of surgery and provide you with an IV if necessary. For serious problems you will need to go to Dartsedo or Chengdu.

Note that Lhagang has little to no infrastructure for dealing very serious emergencies requiring evacuation. It is best to make arrangements with your insurance or a health care provider if you expect to be in situations that would require an emergency medical evacuation in the event of a traumatic or life-threatening problem.

We recommend you consult the website for the US Consulate in Chengdu for more information on health resources in Sichuan province http://chengdu.usembassy-china.org.cn/health/_local_doctors.html. Also, the Global Doctor in Chengdu offers health plans for travelers in China (including emergency evacuation services) and can answer any questions or concerns you might have about traveling or living in Tibetan areas.

In addition to standard types of medicine, there are individuals educated in traditional Tibetan medicine in Lhagang, though no clinics that serve the local population.

Money

How much money should I bring to Lhagang?

Outside of Dartsedo, it is unlikely you will find a bank that can easily change foreign currency. For this reason, you may want to carry a modest amount on you as you travel to Lhagang and beyond. (Lhagang has no reliable banking system of its own). If you plan to stay a long time in Lhagang (or Kham) you may want to make time in your itinerary to return to Dartsedo to withdraw money again later. Alternatively, with a little knowledge of Chinese, it is possible to open an account with the Agricultural Bank of China in Dartsedo, something which can be helpful if you are worried about carrying around a lot of money. There are many Agricultural Banks of China throughout Kham, including Dege and Gandze.

With the rapid development of a modern infrastructure in China, it is possible to arrive in Dartsedo with only an international Visa credit or debit card. Nearly all the Agricultural Bank of China ATMs in Dartsedo will allow you to withdraw money with a Visa card for a transaction fee of about $5. Having said that, it is a good idea not to rely on ATMs exclusively. The ATMs in Dartsedo are known to be unreliable at times and, as far as we know, there are no international ATMs in any of the major Kham cities to the north (Dege, Gandze, Daofu). The easiest solution is to plan ahead by withdrawing/changing money in Chengdu at an ATM or Bank of China and storing it safely on you as you travel into Tibet.

It is important to note that crime does occur in Lhagang. While not common, there are stories of foreigners who have been attacked and robbed. Historically Kham was well known for its warriors and even today you'll see that most men still carry large knives on their belts. While there is no reason to be too alarmed, be aware that bad things can happen even in as friendly a place as Lhagang, especially at night or at events where there's alcohol involved.

Ultimately, the amount of money you bring to Lhagang depends on your interests and how long you would like to spend there. Lhagang tailors make fine Tibetan coats that can range anywhere from 200 to 2000 RMB. Horse rides can cost 30 RMB for a few minutes riding on the grasslands to hundreds of RMB for trips to nearby interesting sites like Dorakarmo or Zhara. Souvernirs range in price from a few RMB to hundreds. A jeep for hire usually cost no less than 600 RMB / day. A budget traveler staying in Lhagang for only a night can get dinner and a simple bed for less than 40-50 RMB.

Museum & Galleries

The Khampa Cultural Centre has Tibetan cultural items on display from areas around Lhagang. (See more on the Khampa Cultural Centre in the Getting Information section)

On your bike

There are many interesting sights within a short distance of Lhagang that are conveniently within a few minutes biking distance. Having said that, if you have not brought your own, you likely won't be able to find a bicycle to borrow or rent in town itself. Sally's Restaurant offered bicycle rentals in the past, but no longer appears to do so. Potential sites to explore bike:

• Ralo monastery
• Gyelko nunnery
• Zhamalung
• Bané monastery

Organized tours

Chyoger Treks annually hosts treks throughout areas in Kham, including Ba Lhagang. Check out their website at definitelynomadic.com/cmtreks.html for information on their latests tours and workshops.

Orientation

The main road through Lhagang runs from southeast to northwest along the Serche ("Golden Sand") River. Overlooking the town are ridges on either side of the road. The eastern or right-most ridge separates the town of Lhagang from Lhagang Grasslands. The ridges hovering over the west and northwest of town and can only be accessed via the side of Serche river opposite the town. Lhagang monastery sits in the northwestern half of Lhagang at the end of town square. Continuing past Lhagang monastery, the road curves northeast and the valley opens up to the large plains area known as Lhagang Grasslands. From here, one can easily see the towering Mount Zhara Lhatse and the peaks that surround it directly to the northeast.

Halfway through town is a side road that leads west over the Serche River and to a neighborhood of resettled nomadic families. Continuing west on this road you come across another bridge that passes over a small stream on the right and eventually the Nyingma monastic college. You can continue on the road deeper into this valley or can head over the hillside and skip into the adjacent valley where one finds the village of Ralo.

See also Area

Population

The population of Lhagang is mostly Tibetan with a fair amount of Han Chinese, as well as several Muslim families. Most locals are either nomads or connected to nomad families. Some Tibetans from far away places in Amdo live in Lhagang with spouse or relative from Lhagang.

Post & Communications

Lhagang has a small post office that shares the same space with a China Unicom store in the southern half of the town. Some people have reported success in receiving packages sent from as far away as America at this post office, though as a general rule you may want to consider shipping and receiving parcels in Dartsedo or Chengdu as the post offices in these cities typically provide faster and more reliable service.

Calls—domestic, long-distance, and international—are possible at public IP phones in town. In addition, Lhagang has a China Unicom and China Mobile store where you can recharge the minutes on your cell phone if you have an account in Sichuan province.

Until recently only one or two places had internet and the access was limited. Today, there are about 4 or 5 locations with fairly reliable internet. In particular, check out the Kan ba Peace Hotel, the Khampa Cultural Centre, Sally's Restaurant, and the Snowland Guesthouse (just above Sally's Restaurant). Internet access is usually about 3 to 5 RMB/ hour.

PSB

There are PSB offices located in Dartsedo and Chengdu. The PSB office in Dartsedo may not be able to grant visa extensions, though the office in Chengdu certainly will.

Seasonal Events

Lhagang and the surrounding areas host a large number of special events, most of which take place during the summer months. Lhagang is famous for its annual horse racing festival which typically takes place in June/July. Also popular is the annual cham or religious dances that takes place at Lhagang monastery.

Lhagang's annual horse racing festival

Dates in the Tibetan Calender: 13-15th of the 5th Tibetan month / བོད་ཟླ་ལྔ་པའི་ཚེས་པ་བཅུ་གསུམ་ནས་བཅོ་ལྔ།

Dates in International Calender: Usually around late June or early July

Location: Lhagang grasslands

The horse racing festival is Lhagang's biggest annual event, often drawing crowds of hundreds of spectators from Tibet, China, and abroad. The event takes place in either late June or early July under the clear and sunny skies of summer on the small hillside that separates the town proper from the Lhagang grasslands. The horse festival is formally a three day event although horse racing itself takes place only on the first day. Locals pitch white tents atop the ridge of the hill where they spend time eating and socializing with their family and friends throughout the three days. The morning of the first day begins with chanting from the monks of Lhagang monastery. Soon after this, the racing begins-first a long-distance race across the length of the grasslands and then a shorter event atop the hill. After lunch, local riders put on an exciting exhibition of acrobatic riding maneuvers on the hillside, fully garbed in colorful dress and surrounded by lines of spectators on either side. The second day of the festival involves a series of community-oriented games, including a foot race, a watermelon-eating contest, and strength competitions. Crowd members volunteer to compete, with men competing against men and then women competing against women-in all making for a fun and light-hearted time. Day three winds down the events with chanting, food, song, and dance. Events usually break at noon for lunch and then slowly begin again around 2 pm, giving the visitors plenty of time to descend the hill for lunch in town, take pictures, or spend time with local families if they wish.

Ritual Dancing at Lhagang monastery

Dates in the International Calender: Late July/Early August

Location: Lhagang Monastery

One of Lhagang's main annual religious events is the ritual monastic dance at Lhagang Monastery. The event traditionally entails four days of activities, most of which take place in the central courtyard of the monastery.

• Day 1: Chanting and cham (dance) by the monks of Lhagang monastery.
• Day 2: A public teaching by an important lama at the monastery.
• Day 3: Rites and offerings to local deities.
• Day 4: Masked dancing by monks of Lhagang monastery.

The fourth day is the most popular (for locals and visitors alike) because of the elaborate dress worn by the monks.

Additional events in the area

During the summer, there are numerous additional horse race, dance, and drama events throughout the areas surrounding Lhagang. For example, the the small area of Garthar (near Bamei) holds an annual seven day festival on the 1st through 7th days of the 6th month of the Tibetan calender (around mid to late July). This is similar to the four-day monastic dance ritual at Lhagang Monastery, but is supplemented by 3 extra days of horse races, dancing, and operatic performances from a local drama group. While you are in Garthar, you can visit the monastery constructed by the 7th Dalai Lama. The 11th Dalai Lama was born in Garthar and later stayed at 7th Dalai Lama's monastery.

Gyelko nunnery-just 15-20 minutes from Lhagang-has a five day festival during the 7th Tibetan month (August-September) featuring performances from scenes in the Gesar epic, as well as from the life stories of famous Tibetan Buddhist saints. The nunnery at Gyelko is vibrant and active, making it a pleasant and fun destination if are in the area.

Shopping

Lhagang is a great place for buying traditional Tibetan handicrafts, Tibetan style clothing, as well as some uniquely nomadic style jewelry, horse ornaments, and yak products. It is easy to spot the various shops as you pass walk through town and exploring them on your own is part of the fun learning about Lhagang. Having said that, we will mention a few stores for travelers who are looking for a specific item.

Clothing

Lhagang offers a range of options for buying Tibetan-style clothes. Many shops have ready-made shirts, jackets, and hats which you can purchase anytime. Many tailors will also make Tibetan-style clothes upon request, allowing you to choose exactly the fabrics and patterns you want. Below are four shops you may want to check out.

Side-street Tailor Just off the main road next to the vegetable shop (below the Thanbo Guesthouse) is a Tibetan family from Lhagang who makes most types of Tibetan clothing. Clothe is imported from Xining and Lhasa. A very nice, full-length robe (Tib. skyar ma) is about 1900 RMB. A jacket with traditional Tibetan-style patterns and a warm interior lining can start around 300 RMB. The shop sells Tibetan rugs from Xining, as well as Tibetan music (cds and cassettes). This is an excellent store if you would like to make a custom requests or buy an already-made jacket.

Kelsang Monlam's Shop Situated just before the bridge on the right side of the side-road which crosses the river, this tailor accepts requests to make jackets (Tib. stod thung), full-length robes (Tib. skyar ma), hats (in winter only), and shirts. The owner, Kalsang Monlam, has been a tailor for many years and often is asked to make special clothes for to be worn in Buddhist ceremonies and rituals. A nice wool robe starts around 1100 RMB, a shirt is around 120RMB. Fabric is acquired from a local store located near Lhagang monastery. Special clothe is also imported from Lhasa. Note that Kalsang and the staff only speak Tibetan and Chinese and that their main business is in making clothes for the local community; you'll have to visit the shop in person to inquire whether he and staff are taking outside requests.

Other stores There are about a half a dozen shops that sells Tibetan style clothes who can accommodate requests for specially a specially made shirt or jacket. Be on the lookout for clothes in whatever shop you are in; that shop might have what you are looking for or else can have it made.

General notes about buying clothes in Lhagang

Depending on how busy the tailor is, custom-made clothes can take anywhere from a few hours to a few days to complete. Be aware that if you request clothing made with a thick wool or lined with an animal fur, the price can be quite high. Recent attempts to minimize the use of sheep-skin lining for jackets has meant that the price of thick, warm wool jackets is increasing. If you can not find what you are looking for, the nearby town of Rangakha also has a selection of Tibetan-style clothes for sale. Fabric for jackets and other clothing is available in several shops across the road from main square and is a good place to visit if you are wondering about different styles of Tibetan clothes or else are interested in purchasing fabric or in general.

Music

There is a great deal of contemporary Tibetan music produced and sold from this area of Tibet, most of which is available in Lhagang as cassettes and VCDs. Although the vast majority of this music is in the Kham dialect of Tibetan, VCDs and cassettes from local artists may be interesting even for someone with no knowledge of the language. Generally speaking Tibetan music tends to fall in two categories: popular songs related Tibetan culture and religious chanting. Both are easy to find in Lhagang. Popular songs reflect on the culture, lifestyle, religion, contemporary social issues such as education, and-less directly-politics. CDs and cassettes of chanting are usually recordings of a well known lama reciting Buddhist liturgies and scriptures or are from an ordinary monk with a special talent for music.

The "Nun's Store" under the Kan ba Guest House is a good source for buying CDs and cassettes of Buddhist chanting. Popular music and folk songs (and chants) are available at a music/DVD store directly adjacent to the entrance of Lhagang elementary school (about halfway through town) and across the street from Lhagang monastery at a souvenir shop with posters of Indian singers on the outside. VCDs cost 15-30 RMB. Sherten, Kunga, Dron-bay, Riga, and Lhakyi are popular contemporary artists. CDs from Drukdrak Lama (from the nearby Gyelko nunnery) are also very popular amongst locals.

Specialty Items

In addition to a wide array of beautiful jewelery and ornaments unique to this area of Tibet, Lhagang has a few additional items that maybe of interest to travelers. Given that Lhagang is a mostly a nomadic community, shops sell interesting types of horse and yak products. Colorful horse and saddle blankets, for example, are for sale in several shops throughout town at prices starting at 120 RMB. Yak tails are another unique item you'll see. Authentic Kham-style knives with a yak bone handle-about 2 feet long-are for sale for near the monastery for about 300 RMB (note that these are what most of the men in the area are carrying! There are also more ornate Tibetan style knives for sale in many souvenir shops though these are basically the same as what you can buy in any craft store in Chengdu or Lhasa). Finally, although less common than in larger cities, handmade Buddhist art (fine paintings and statues) and other religious items are for sale, most notably at the shop at Lhagang Monastery.

Tourist PDFs

• Place names in and around Ba Lhagang

Travel agencies

There are numerous Chinese operated travel agencies with services in Sichuan Tibetan areas. You can find their brochures at many of the traveler's hotels and hostels in Chengdu, such as Sam's Guesthouse and the Traffic Hotel. Note also that there are several travel agencies with walk-in offices on the first floor of the Traffic Hotel. Most travel of these agencies offer trips not only to Kham, but all over cultural Tibet and the T.A.R.

Weather (climate)

Lhagang is roughly the same latitude as Austin, Texas in the United States and although high in altitude, it is not as cold as you might expect. The summer is warm with temperatures around 60-70° F. As with the entire Tibetan plateau, Lhagang experiences a small monsoon effect meaning that there are a fair number of rainy days during the summer months. At night in the summer, the temperature drops between 40 and 50° F. Violent afternoon thunderstorms in the summer are not rare and can sometimes bring down large size hail.

Snow usually falls in the autumn and spring months (March, April, May and September, October, November, December) though any accumulation is usually melted away within hours by the strong Tibetan sun. Winter temperatures hover below 32° F for most of the winter months, though the dry air combined high elevation can make the sunny days feel pleasant—especially around midday. The winter nights are dry and with few clouds, making for a clear skies and excellent star gazing.

Where to go next

• Bamei (Tibetan: བར་སྨད): Forty-five minutes north of Lhagang by car, Bamei and the nearby valley of Garthar feature are the home of the 11th Dalai Lama's birth place.
• Daofu (Tibetan: རྟའུ): Medium sized town three hours north of Lhagang. Surrounded by farmland, Dawu is a scenic area with beautiful Tibetan-style houses and several interesting monasteries.
• Drango (Chinese: Lahoul; Tibetan: བྲག་མགོ): … need more info, in particular about its monastery…
• Gandze (Tibetan: དཀར་མཛེས): A day's drive north of Lhagang, Gandze sits below a beautiful mountain range and is home to several interesting monasteries. Gandze is a good starting point for travel to Dzogchen monastery (north) and Dege (west), home of the Dege Printing House.